How to treat low density & fine curly hair

After a lifetime of working on salons, and styling hair, you see some hair-related issues more frequently than others. The problem that I’ll be going through today related to low density, thin curly hair and how it can be managed and treated.

Apart from wearing a wig, there are other measures that you can take to support your natural hair and improve its overall health and appearance. Many of my clients would struggle to retain volume and seem to think that cutting lots off is the only way to improve fine curly hair volume.

This couldn’t be further from the truth! So if you are one of those people struggling with your low density curly hair, then this guide is for you. I’ll be detailing some of the best methods and tricks that I’ve picked up over the years, helping you on your curly hair journey.

Types of hair densities

What is fine curly hair?

Before we go into tips and tricks, first let’s understand what type of hair you have to begin with. Fine hair is smaller in diameter than thick hair (you’ll be able to tell the difference by looking closely or comparing with someone with thicker hair). Hair being ‘fine’ has nothing do to with the number of individual strangs on your hair, this is a common misconception.

For instance, many people have lots of fine hairs on their head, but still don’t have ‘thick’ hair. Also worth mentioning that fine curly hair is fragile when compared against other curl patterns, as the thin strands are more susceptible to damage and breakage from heat and brushing.

If you do have thin, curly strands of hair, you need to treat your hair more carefully, as the lack of moisture retention is likely to make it more difficult to manage and style.

What is low density curly hair?

Low density curly hair is different from fine curly hair. Low density hair is when individual strands are far apart, allowing the scalp to be more visible. Fine, medium or coarse low density hair are the different types of hair that you could have – it’s worth doing thorough investigation into your scalp and strands before following a treatment plan.

Low density hair, curly or not, will be impacted more by external factors such as weather and air. This is because strands don’t have support or protection from the outside elements. Low density curly hair commonly struggles to have volume, which we’ll be tackling today.

What products to use for fine curly hair

Despite having access to salon-grade products, I tried to use accessible solutions, so my clients could carry on what I’m doing when they were at home (without breaking the bank). Here are some of my product tips when tackling fine or low density curly hair:

Using lightweight products

For low density hair, you don’t want to weigh the strands down, as they’re already lacking support. Instead, use a lightweight set of products. Use shampoo and water-based conditioners, as these aren’t as heavy as oil-based products, like butters and gels.

Lightweight conditioners will hold your curl pattern without making it look flat.

Using one styling product

The aim of the game is to moisturize your strands, without weighing them down. One other trick you can follow is only using one styling product. If you’re using creams, gel and mousses, it’s likely that your strands will become weighed down. I usually recommend to clients with low density or thin curly hair to find a water-based conditioner and stick to that.

Not only will many products weigh down your hair, but it’ll also make it look greasy. The one product that I recommend using is a volumizing foam.

Use less conditioner

Both standard and leave-in conditioners are heavy on your hair, which will exacerbate the thin/low density look if you use too much. If you do use a conditioner, use it sparingly and spread it over your hands before applying it to hair. Apply when your hair is wet, for maximum volume and definition when your hair is dry.

By rubbing it in your hands thoroughly, it will allow the conditioner to mix better and create a foam-like cream, which is perfect for thin-looking hair. I always suggest squishing and grabbing hair with conditioner in your hands, to bunch it up and make it appear thicker.

Deep condition dirty hair

In the salon, whenever clients deep conditioned their hair, it’d feel too soft to style. This softness didn’t help with the low-density or fine appearance. The deep conditioning meant that the hair was too moist, which weighed it down. This meant that the curl pattern was ruined and the ends would become quite frizzy. Painting quite the picture here, aren’t I.

My suggestion is to deep condition when the hair is dirty, and not just when you feel like it. This means that when your hair is dirty, first wet your hair, then use a deep conditioner. The trick is to wash the conditioner out, then shampoo it. Once the shampoo is rinsed, then apply the water-based conditioner. Conditioning first, then shampoo and then condition will help the hair retain a thicker appearance. You don’t want to do this too often as it might strip the nutrients from your strands.

Utilize protein treatments

Eating protein isn’t the only way to improve your hair with aminos, you can also apply them to your hair and scalp directly. I always suggest protein treatments to clients with curly, but thin hair. These treatments will help retain a strong curl-pattern, shine and volume.

Protein will help thicken strands and make them stronger. This is highly beneficial for people who suffer with damage and breakage. Of course, the look will be thicker.

Styling tips for low density curly hair

Styling low density curly hair isn’t always easy, as more products will make it heavier, and lose volume. My main tip is to utilize strunching. Once you’ve covered your palms in a lightweight conditioner, scrunch your hair in bunches, essentially clumping it together. This will give the appearance of thicker and fuller hair, whilst retaining volume.

If you’re still struggling with your low density or fine/thin curly hair, you could benefit from a curly wig. A wig is a great way to rock your ideal hairstyle, without spending the time and money on styling and haircare products. Also check out other reasons why people wear wigs.